![]() ![]() I will try some stuff, but I am not 100% sold on this. TODO: Add some soft clipping diodes to get some mild clipping when digging in. TODO: Experiment with R27 and R28 to see how lower or higher rails on the preamp could make the amp's volume range more usable. And we probably do not need a buffer either. ![]() This should be easy with two switching jacks. Add a simple series FX loop right before the power amp. I will revert it in a few days to check again. The truth is that I did not hear any noticeable difference. I have not used a cap this way before so I was not sure about the effect. I was wondering how starved the chipamp could be without some solid power capacitance close to it. This is going to be part of a bigger change to rearrange the gain structure of the amp I restored this since I do not need any more gain on the clean channel and I am not sure I like the change in tone. And it seems to also affect the voicing a bit since it includes C8 and R9 in the feedback loop (probably to compensate for adding R5 on the first stage). It gives another boost in gain on the cleans that is immediately audible as extra noise. I have tried this but I am not sold on it. I will repurpose this at some point, but so far my goal is to make everything work through the gain knob The top right is not connected to anything, and the bottom left is no longer used since we removed the LEDs. The panel now looks much better The switch fits only if it's mounted on its side so that it flips horizontally. Replace the plastic boost switch with a DPDT toggle switch. Perhaps it makes sense to experiment with different values and types here to suit your taste, but without it, you get a nice percussive and super-rich sound that is almost JazzChorus-like. Something especially evident in harmonics and pick attack. Without it, when the boost is on, the sound gets a bit harsh. It rounds the sound a lot, and it kills lots of clarity. This cap acts as a low-pass filter on the final stage. This is super easy and very straightforward. Add a 1/4 jack to allow connection to a CAB. When you engage the boost, the amp still went loud fast, but you got some more volume resolution than before. The difference was more evident without the boost on. The original mod was to change the linear volume pot P4 to one with an audio taper. This change is rather obsolete now that we know that the last stage can be changed into a buffer without affecting the tone negatively. Removing C12 also removes a lowpass filter that kept the amp muffled (as described below). You might feel like you are not getting enough speed for how much you punch the gas pedal, but the top volume is still there and with a powerful pickup you can still get full volume if you need it. ![]() This results in a much more manageable volume. I removed R15, R16, R17, C12 and C13, and then bridged R15 and R17 so that pins 1 and 2 of the opamp are connected. Post 8 describes the effect and changed parts/values Change the tonestack to match the voicing of classic VOX circuits. The only issue with it is that when the boost is on and the gain is set high, the amp is VERY loud. Just snip the LEDs and you immediately get rid of that "bees in a can" sound when the boost is on. This is the first mod that anyone should do. Ssguitar and tdpri forums have much useful info. So here is the list of my TODO stuff, gathering info from around the internet, plus results so far. My goal is to have a nice super-clean platform to use with my pedals. The schematic has been around for almost a decade, but there still might be things that need to be fixed. It's easy to lift pads if you are not careful. Keep in mind that the pcb is crappy though. ![]() Plus it's a DIYer's dream, being a full old-school circuit with a transformer PSU and all through-hole parts. With a few mods and a cab it sounds very nice. That's my second ongoing small guitar amp project after the Fender Champion 40. ![]()
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